Wild Georgian Wines
Zilch, that is, until a few months ago, when a small winery called Pheasant's Tears began selling kvevri-made wines in the U.S. Its saperavi, a single-varietal "black wine," is a deep, pokeberry purple, with the wild flavor that I associate with red old-style Georgian wines: pomegranate, black plum, whiffs of marzipan. Its other wine, a white rkatsiteli, is amber-colored, full-bodied, and tannic, tasting of citrus and bitter almond. Both are great with grilled meat, and I've started springing them on unsuspecting dinner guests. (So far so good.)

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By Karen Shimizu